Dolmama

Upscale, yet cozy, Armenian restaurant. Expensive.

Address: 10 Pushkin Street, by Abovian Street
Phone: (+374-10) 56-89-31; 56-13-54

2004 AIM Article

April 2004 article in AIM Magazine

In 1998. Jirair Avanian opened Dolmama because. "There weren't any decent places to eat in Yerevan," he says. "There was no respect for food. I wanted to give people a creative alternative."

And that he's done. Dolma is made with slices of tender filet mignon. Apricots are used as a basis for sauce on baby veal. Thick, creamy buffalo yogurt is the basis of a sur- prisingly simple dessert that is reminiscent of - and way beyond - grandma.

The philosophy behind Dolmama is to provide food with dignity. This makes for serious dining instead of traditional Armenian home cooking. With the amazing variety of produce and meat in Armenia, Avanian has been able to make good on his mission.

Like the menu, the atmosphere at Dolmama is sort of homey, but with a stylish twist that mixes the old with the new. The artwork is eclectic: ancient carpets with modern batik. The walls are warm earthy tones of greens and blues and peaches Nothing is overly ethnic or strictly Armenian, but everything is Armenian-inspired - just like the menu.

Dolmama's menu provides a nice selection of choice. Grape leaves appear not just in the almost-traditional dolma mentioned above, but also as wrapping for quails. Pork, beef, chicken, lamb, trout and the famous Armenian crayfish make appearances in various sauces and with fortifying side dishes - all elegantly and beautifully served, with several omnipresent pomegranate seeds. Delicious carpaccio, different from anything any Italians could produce, to home made pasta with yogurt sauce are all on the permanent menu. But look for the special menu, too, which offers seasonal items in a seasonal country.

For soup try the mushroom crayfish bisque. The salad and appetizer menu includes delicious choices such as smoked trout with sun-dried tomatoes and arugula walnut mushroom salad.

For a main course there's mountain lamb stew or ishkhan (a local flsh) with lemon butter sauce. The current special menu includes a celery and yo$urt soup with bacon or whole cornish hen with a f,g and wine sauce.

With such an elegant menu no wonder Avanian's menu is the choice for state dinners and inaugural parties. This is also the special night out venue of choice for Yerevan residents and for frequent visitors.

The average cost per person is about US $35-50 including wine and dessert. And what wine - Avanian's selections of new favorites and old gems makes the experience well worth it.

For those perfect spring and summer evenings, patio seating is available. To make sure you have a table for dinner, reservations are recommen